The Eugene Weavers’ Guild provided an update on their use of the ANWG Challenge Grant funds they received from the 2023 – 2025 grant cycle. Here’s their news:
Last May the Eugene Weavers’ Guild received a $600 grant from ANWG to fund The Flowing Colors Project. I wanted to give you an update about our progress thus far.
Over the summer our three Flowing Colors dye sessions were highly successful. The dye kitchen rentals and materials were all funded by our grant from ANWG. Thirty different guild members brought warps or skeins to artistically dye in one or more of our sessions. Guild members Cathy Barnes, Emily Guilland-Larsen, and Marilyn Robert served as leaders for the sessions.
In the first session participants were taught a technique called Dye Over Ice. Cellulose yarns were first treated with soda ash and then coiled in the bottom of plastic tubs. Ice cubes were then poured on top of the fiber to create a layer 2 inches deep (we used over one hundred and sixty pounds of ice!). Procion fiber-reactive dyes were then sprinkled over the ice. The tubs were left to sit overnight. As the ice melted the dyes filtered down through the yarns. One characteristic of ice-dyeing is that the colors often split into their more basic components. For example, a green dye may break down into blue and yellow and create a variegated look to the yarn. In the morning participants returned to the dye kitchen to rinse the mucky dye water off their warps. They then took their yarn home to finish with several warm rinses. Sixteen guild members participated in ice-dyeing, some at this dye session and some at a practice session held at Cathy’s home.
During the second dye session, using 22 different pre-mixed procion fiber-reactive colors, 14 guild members dyed over 10 pounds of fiber. Participants came with pre-wound warps or skeins. The cellulose fibers were first soaked in a soda ash solution and then spread out on plastic or newspaper and painted with the dye. Different painting layouts were used – from circle to straight line to zigzag. Some people came with detailed dye plans, others with picture references for inspiration and others planned as they went. Starting with the 22 premixed colors, participants mixed additional shades into a truly awe-inspiring range of colors. After applying the dye participants took their fibers home to cure. After curing they rinsed out the unattached dye, dried the fibers, and began planning their woven projects.
During our third dye session 15 guild members met to explore warp painting with natural dyes. Four prepared natural dye mordant guar gum pastes were provided as well as an indigo vat. The dye pastes included madder root extract, a yellow-based red; marigold flower, a vibrant yellow; cutch extract, a reddish- brown; and walnut extract, a gray-brown. Participants arrived at the workshop with their prepared warps and design ideas. After scouring, damp warps were painted using the dye mordant pastes. Dipping in the indigo vat provided an option to expand design options and broaden the color palette. Unpainted warps were first dipped in indigo and could be over-painted with the mordant dye pastes, as desired.
Due to the time needed for the drying of the natural dyes, some finishing steps were performed after the dye session for the participants. At Marilyn’s studio the warps were wrapped in cotton fabric or newsprint, coiled, and placed in a steamer to affix the dye paint to the fiber. The warps were then unwrapped, cooled, and soaked in a chalk bath to remove any remaining guar gum paste and to brighten the colors. Finally, the warps were rinsed, dried and returned to their owners.
With our three dye sessions behind us, Phase Two of the Flowing Colors Project has begun. This is the weaving part! We look forward to seeing all the woven textiles that stem from these colorfully dyed yarns. Participants have until the end of April to finish their projects in time for the May exhibit.
A slideshow of our three dyeing sessions is now posted on the Eugene Weavers’ Guild website at https://www.eugeneweavers.com/icedye.
Sincerely,
Cathy Barnes, Project Leader